My time in Brazil was enjoyable, educational, albeit a bit too short. I do know that I would like to return in the future, because I really only spent about 2 ½ days out and about, due to a stomach illness! I know the amount of times I’ve been sick on this voyage seems ridiculous…but I have been very careful overall, I promise!
The first day my friends Ashley, Caitlin, and Dana and I headed for the Pelourinho, or the historic district in the upper city. In order to reach the top safely (Salvador is a fairly dangerous city), individuals need to take an elevator up for about 5 US cents. While we made our way to the elevator, we stopped at a market where we saw my name on a billboard (correct spelling and all!). I also learned that many individuals in Brazil speak Spanish, which made me happy because I was able to practice a bit, which I wasn’t expecting. We reached the Pelourinho and began exploring. Pelourinho is a beautiful area, namely due to the historic architecture, cobblestone streets, and brightly painted buildings. During an unexpected rain shower, we found our way to one shop that had paintings on the back wall. We asked the owner about the paintings, and she told us to go up the stairs. Little did we know that this shop would have four stories of beautiful paintings! Most were of Pelourinho and were full of multiple colors, while others were of other aspects of Brazil, such as capoeria. After spending quite a while looking at all of the art, all of us bought at least one piece to take home with us. We wanted to go somewhere a bit less touristy, so we grabbed a cab and took it to the Barra neighborhood, which is a beach community. Barra was right on the beach, with a lighthouse on one end and different cantinas and restaurants lining the sidewalk. We found one restaurant which was packed with locals, so we waited for a table on the covered patio and watched the rain shower. Our lunch consisted of some delicious Brazilian beverages and food. We tried the national soda, called Guarana Antarctica. It is omnipresent; everyone drinks it. It tastes a bit like ginger ale mixed with cherry/berry flavor. We also had feijoada (beans), and pastiés, which is similar to a cheese-filled empanada. Our lunch definitely reflected the Brazilian life: enjoying good company, good food, and good laughs! We were at the restaurant for almost three hours-- which was fine; we really had a fantastic time. We also visited the lighthouse and watched some individuals play soccer on the beach! We ended our night with some gelato and a stroll to find a cab back to the ship.
One thing that I have realized about American culture is that generally, we rarely take the time to simply enjoy life and enjoy good company. I know I personally am a very scheduled person; I usually am very goal-oriented in planning my days and must keep busy. But in many countries I’ve visited, my friends and I have loved spending time just seeing what comes, not really having a plan, and spending time with one another around a table and people-watching, sharing stories of our travels, and laughing. I think I have to thank my mom for teaching me the joy of “lingering” over meals. But this trip has really helped me see that one thing I’d love to bring back from some other countries, and one thing I think (and hope) I’ve learned, is the ability to simply enjoy being.
One goal I’ve had in multiple ports is to visit schools to observe how school systems work around the world. The second day I attended a field program called Brazilian Education, which took us to three separate institutions regarding education for the poor in Salvador. We first went to a primary school in the favela (slum neighborhood) of Calabar. This primary school was built and run my mothers of the community in order to ensure that their children, and children of friends, would receive a decent education. The school’s budget is primarily met through an annual $6,000 donation from an organization in Switzerland. After meeting with the children, a few performed capoeira (dance-fighting) for us! The kids were pretty fantastic--I was really impressed! We then headed to a high school for 13-18 year olds. Although I was expecting a rough situation, I had no idea how wild the students at this school would be. Apparently, teachers have no incentive to keep students in class--the school is basically there to keep students off the streets and from getting involved in drugs or in gang violence. We visited a few classrooms, and my heart went out to the students who are at school to learn, and who really want to learn, but who are distracted by the chaos around them. One difficulty is that the classrooms don’t have doors or windows, so even if the class itself is being quiet, there is no way to drone out the noise from the halls or from outside. The school is successful, however, in keeping kids off the streets. That is a laudable feat. Our final stop was the Steve Biko foundation, which is an organization that helps poor students prepare for the mandatory government exam. In order to apply for the free public universities, students must take a government exam. Unfortunately, students who have the means to afford private tutoring or schooling will prepare for the exams, and usually outplace students from poor backgrounds for these free universities. This is not too different from the situation with the SATs in the United States. The Steve Biko foundation provides free tutoring for black students from disadvantaged backgrounds. It is also a cultural institute, in that its other goal is to increase self-esteem of Brazilians from African descent. The foundation has made huge strides for students from these backgrounds, and it has even sent a few students to Morehouse College in the United States. This final day spent at different educational institutions allowed me to see the comparisons between private and public education across countries: the United States (Hawaii), Japan, India, Ghana, and Brazil.
That afternoon Ashley and I enjoyed another afternoon in the Pelourinho, and after a few fun encounters (watching some artists paint, making a Brazilian friend) and some not-so-fun encounters (getting derogatory comments from many males, having difficulty finding a trust-worthy cab driver), we returned to the ship. Unfortunately, I woke up around 1 am with very intense stomach pain. This stomach pain didn’t cease, and I actually spent the entire next two days on the ship, learning later that I and two of my friends had gotten food poisoning from the gelato we had eaten. Today was our final day, and I went out for about three hours for one last time. I had a good time out, but my body was telling me to stop, so we returned to the ship early. I talked to my parents the other day on the phone, and I told them “I think my body had enough after Vietnam.” I have been very lucky this voyage to not experience anything incredibly serious; many students were mugged in Salvador, and I feel blessed to not have been. In the grand scheme of things, sea sickness and food poisoning is not a big deal, though I think my body will be happy to be back in the United States and free from globe-trotting for awhile!!
It is hard for me to comprehend the fact that the program that follows our ship’s path on our TV in our cabin now says “Salvador to Ft. Lauderdale.” It seems unreal that I’ll be in the United States in 9 short days. At that point, it will be difficult to write a summation of my experiences, as well as what I’ve learned and how I wish to incorporate it into my life in a meaningful way. But I do promise that I will write you again after I’ve had time to reflect upon and realize what I’ve just spent 3 ½ months of my life doing. That will probably come in Dallas. Until then, thank you for following my blog, thank you for your well wishes and your prayers, and thank you for being part of my journey around the world.
Monday, April 26, 2010
Thursday, April 15, 2010
Processing Ghana
My stay in Ghana was definitely a test of patience and a learning experience. This is only the second time Semester at Sea has docked in Ghana, and unfortunately, it was clear in the transportation issues that arose. I hate to begin this blog entry with a negative tone, because I met some wonderful people, but the stay here was difficult on me mentally, as well as physically.
Our ship was docked in the port town of Tema, which is roughly 45 minutes from the capital city of Accra. The first day, a group of friends and I wanted to go into Accra to explore the city and go to a market. To make a long story short, we were unable to get onto the Semester at Sea shuttles, so we eventually took a taxi around 12:30 to Accra, where we were dropped off at a local market. It was so interesting to see the wide range of products sold there, including soaps, shoes, dried fish, clothing, and cds! We realized we needed lunch, so we found a man to take us to downtown in a Tro-Tro, or a van. This van, however, stalled about 3 times on us and felt like it was about to fall apart! It was definitely an experience for all of us. We found a great restaurant to eat at and then we took another taxi to the arts center, or a large market. My friend David and I ran into a young man, about our age, who has a drum shop and wanted to show us his work. This led our group to his shop for a personal drumming lesson! It was so amazing to learn different rhythms together on the drums he made. Although I wasn’t great at it, I had a really fantastic time. On the way back to the ship, I noticed two differences in Ghana than in other countries I have visited. While every country has had an informal sector of labor, the informal sector of labor in Ghana is much larger. Roads are swarmed with individuals selling a multitude of items which are carried, usually in quite high stacks, on their heads. This could include plastic baggies of water, shoes, or plantain chips. Another observation I made was that many cars had flags on the inside near their front window. About half of the vehicles I saw had an American flag with Obama’s picture on it! Obama was found pretty much everywhere- in cars, in the markets, and even in artwork at the school I visited!
My second day in Ghana was spent visiting the Morning Star School, a Christian private school in Accra. Unfortunately, students were out for a three week holiday, but we enjoyed a tour of the facilities with their headmistress and were able to meet some of the 9th graders who were preparing for the mandatory government-run exams. Morning Star is a school which is run incredibly well, and due to donations from various organizations, it is able to support children from impoverished backgrounds. The headmistress was an organized and strong woman; it is clear she runs a tight ship at the school! Due to this, it is evident the outcomes of the students are favorable. 100% of the students go on to high school, and around 90% go to university. The headmistress actually attended University of Georgia to obtain her master’s degree in education; it was wonderful to see that she returned to her home country to serve students there. We were lucky to meet with some 9th graders during their lunch break. My friend Caitlin and I were greeted by Petrina, a 14 year old girl with a beautiful smile and an incredible personality! She definitely was not shy at the least, and asked us for our Facebook names, as she hopes to hear more about our travels. Petrina is very determined and is applying for an all-girl’s school after she completes the exams. She desires to be a business manager one day, which I think will be a possibility if she stays in school and remains positive about learning.
One of my goals for Ghana was to complete a service project, so I signed up to go to Habitat for Humanity. We drove roughly three hours to the work site, which is in a rural area of Ghana. It actually looked a lot like Haiti. Our job on the site started with moving three-pound cement bricks from a field (where they dried) to a shed. We then met the homeowner and daughter of the house we’d be working on. Throughout the morning, we shoveled dirt into pans, buckets, and wheelbarrows, and started to fill the foundation for the home. Although it doesn’t sound hard, believe me, in the 95-degree weather, it was! My attempts to hydrate the night before and during the morning unfortunately didn’t work out too well for me, and I actually got overheated and became quite ill. For 40 minutes before lunch, I sat in the bus. While I was upset that I was missing out on a service project, the bus driver, Oliver began talking to me, first by saying that God was watching over me. I moved up to the front of the bus and began asking him about himself and his life in Ghana, and he asked me about our voyage thus far. It was amazing how much of a connection you can make with a complete stranger in 30 minutes. He talked about his reservations with South Africa hosting the world cup because it is a country of racism, and he mentioned he loved the United States, and especially Obama. Oliver said that he was going to pray for me to do well in school and finish with high distinction next year, so I can become an ambassador for the United States. I laughed, and said thank you, and then asked what I could pray for him. He mentioned that all he wants is an opportunity to visit the United States for one month and see how we live, and to obtain a visa for the visit. Unfortunately, visas are hard to acquire in Ghana. I promised him I would pray for him, and he asked for my address so we could become pen pals. Although I knew I wasn’t aiding Ghana in a physical way, the care and concern Oliver and I shared for one another was a wonderful experience. I hope one day, I can receive a letter from him that says he obtained that visa.
A cultural opinion I picked up on throughout my stay in Ghana was the homophobia that persists throughout society. My discussions with several individuals inevitably ended up discussing religion (Christianity is the dominant religion in Ghana), and many individuals mentioned that they did not like gays. I knew that I was in a safe situation in these conversations (one included Oliver), so I decided to ask them why they thought homosexuality was bad. Most individuals stated that they thought that it was gross, it was unnatural, it was unright, or it was not what God intended. I cannot point fingers, because there are many individuals in the United States who believe the same way. But it was really heartbreaking to see a society that makes homosexuality illegal, would banish and even physically harm homosexuals, and believes than anyone who is homosexual cannot be, or is not, a child of God. I decided to tell Oliver that I can understand his opinion, but in my own life, I know homosexuals who love God and who love Christ, and are good Christians and wonderful people. He was shocked to hear this, and his response was overall positive. I knew I could not change his beliefs, but I thought maybe it would be good to mention that the United States is a place where homosexuals can be seen as children of God, and in the future, may have an equal stance in society.
Our final day in Ghana was a short one, but a pretty educating one, as well. In the morning a few friends and I headed to Tema to find a salon to get our hair braided. We found a salon and were greeted right away with smiles from about five women in the shop. They made us feel comfortable, and one woman immediately called me “her new friend” and sat me down. My friend Caitlin and I had about 11-12 braids braided in throughout our hair, and I am actually quite pleased with the result! My roommate Ashley had her hair partially braided into cornrows, and she looks really great! It was really fun to talk with these women, and we learned that we all have names according to what day of the week we’re born. I am a Monday-born, so I am called “Adjoa.” They were all so kind to us, and it was nice to spend time with them for the few hours. Afterwards, we headed to Accra for one last time. We went to a store called Global Mamas, which is a fair-trade NGO run by women. It was established by two former Peace Corps volunteers who wanted to make a long-term impact of women’s well-being in Ghana. I bought a beautiful Christmas ornament. On the way back to the ship, the bus driver on our Semester at Sea shuttle hit a woman’s basket that was being carried on her head. This lead to an incredible yelling match and a huge argument between the bus driver and angry individuals outside. Individuals were banging on our bus, and a man with a brick was outside my window. I was very fearful for what could happen, and we crouched down a few times, but I am happy to say the situation turned out alright once our bus driver swallowed his pride (about 30 minutes later), and paid the women for the damage he caused. This was definitely a sad way to end our stay in Ghana.
Overall, Ghana was a fascinating country, and one that for many reasons, I have difficulty understanding. Many of the men at the market were incredibly pushy and pulled on our arms, and seeing the homophobia that existed was also difficult. It is a country that I will have to process for some time, similar to my experience in China. I think it’s important to note, however, that the context of the lens at which I’m looking at Ghana is a bit different. To compare it to other nations we’ve been to is difficult, because in some ways it is similar to the other developing nations, but overall, the culture of Ghana is incredibly different from that in Vietnam and in India. Professor Lopez and I, and Ashley and I, have had many conversations trying to grapple our opinions and our experiences, but sometimes travel observations end in questions, rather than in statements.
There are 20 days left to the voyage, which is absolutely unreal to me. I will write you from Brazil, and I will write a final two entries: one on my way back the United States, and then one once I’ve made it back home to Dallas. I hope you all are healthy and happy!
Our ship was docked in the port town of Tema, which is roughly 45 minutes from the capital city of Accra. The first day, a group of friends and I wanted to go into Accra to explore the city and go to a market. To make a long story short, we were unable to get onto the Semester at Sea shuttles, so we eventually took a taxi around 12:30 to Accra, where we were dropped off at a local market. It was so interesting to see the wide range of products sold there, including soaps, shoes, dried fish, clothing, and cds! We realized we needed lunch, so we found a man to take us to downtown in a Tro-Tro, or a van. This van, however, stalled about 3 times on us and felt like it was about to fall apart! It was definitely an experience for all of us. We found a great restaurant to eat at and then we took another taxi to the arts center, or a large market. My friend David and I ran into a young man, about our age, who has a drum shop and wanted to show us his work. This led our group to his shop for a personal drumming lesson! It was so amazing to learn different rhythms together on the drums he made. Although I wasn’t great at it, I had a really fantastic time. On the way back to the ship, I noticed two differences in Ghana than in other countries I have visited. While every country has had an informal sector of labor, the informal sector of labor in Ghana is much larger. Roads are swarmed with individuals selling a multitude of items which are carried, usually in quite high stacks, on their heads. This could include plastic baggies of water, shoes, or plantain chips. Another observation I made was that many cars had flags on the inside near their front window. About half of the vehicles I saw had an American flag with Obama’s picture on it! Obama was found pretty much everywhere- in cars, in the markets, and even in artwork at the school I visited!
My second day in Ghana was spent visiting the Morning Star School, a Christian private school in Accra. Unfortunately, students were out for a three week holiday, but we enjoyed a tour of the facilities with their headmistress and were able to meet some of the 9th graders who were preparing for the mandatory government-run exams. Morning Star is a school which is run incredibly well, and due to donations from various organizations, it is able to support children from impoverished backgrounds. The headmistress was an organized and strong woman; it is clear she runs a tight ship at the school! Due to this, it is evident the outcomes of the students are favorable. 100% of the students go on to high school, and around 90% go to university. The headmistress actually attended University of Georgia to obtain her master’s degree in education; it was wonderful to see that she returned to her home country to serve students there. We were lucky to meet with some 9th graders during their lunch break. My friend Caitlin and I were greeted by Petrina, a 14 year old girl with a beautiful smile and an incredible personality! She definitely was not shy at the least, and asked us for our Facebook names, as she hopes to hear more about our travels. Petrina is very determined and is applying for an all-girl’s school after she completes the exams. She desires to be a business manager one day, which I think will be a possibility if she stays in school and remains positive about learning.
One of my goals for Ghana was to complete a service project, so I signed up to go to Habitat for Humanity. We drove roughly three hours to the work site, which is in a rural area of Ghana. It actually looked a lot like Haiti. Our job on the site started with moving three-pound cement bricks from a field (where they dried) to a shed. We then met the homeowner and daughter of the house we’d be working on. Throughout the morning, we shoveled dirt into pans, buckets, and wheelbarrows, and started to fill the foundation for the home. Although it doesn’t sound hard, believe me, in the 95-degree weather, it was! My attempts to hydrate the night before and during the morning unfortunately didn’t work out too well for me, and I actually got overheated and became quite ill. For 40 minutes before lunch, I sat in the bus. While I was upset that I was missing out on a service project, the bus driver, Oliver began talking to me, first by saying that God was watching over me. I moved up to the front of the bus and began asking him about himself and his life in Ghana, and he asked me about our voyage thus far. It was amazing how much of a connection you can make with a complete stranger in 30 minutes. He talked about his reservations with South Africa hosting the world cup because it is a country of racism, and he mentioned he loved the United States, and especially Obama. Oliver said that he was going to pray for me to do well in school and finish with high distinction next year, so I can become an ambassador for the United States. I laughed, and said thank you, and then asked what I could pray for him. He mentioned that all he wants is an opportunity to visit the United States for one month and see how we live, and to obtain a visa for the visit. Unfortunately, visas are hard to acquire in Ghana. I promised him I would pray for him, and he asked for my address so we could become pen pals. Although I knew I wasn’t aiding Ghana in a physical way, the care and concern Oliver and I shared for one another was a wonderful experience. I hope one day, I can receive a letter from him that says he obtained that visa.
A cultural opinion I picked up on throughout my stay in Ghana was the homophobia that persists throughout society. My discussions with several individuals inevitably ended up discussing religion (Christianity is the dominant religion in Ghana), and many individuals mentioned that they did not like gays. I knew that I was in a safe situation in these conversations (one included Oliver), so I decided to ask them why they thought homosexuality was bad. Most individuals stated that they thought that it was gross, it was unnatural, it was unright, or it was not what God intended. I cannot point fingers, because there are many individuals in the United States who believe the same way. But it was really heartbreaking to see a society that makes homosexuality illegal, would banish and even physically harm homosexuals, and believes than anyone who is homosexual cannot be, or is not, a child of God. I decided to tell Oliver that I can understand his opinion, but in my own life, I know homosexuals who love God and who love Christ, and are good Christians and wonderful people. He was shocked to hear this, and his response was overall positive. I knew I could not change his beliefs, but I thought maybe it would be good to mention that the United States is a place where homosexuals can be seen as children of God, and in the future, may have an equal stance in society.
Our final day in Ghana was a short one, but a pretty educating one, as well. In the morning a few friends and I headed to Tema to find a salon to get our hair braided. We found a salon and were greeted right away with smiles from about five women in the shop. They made us feel comfortable, and one woman immediately called me “her new friend” and sat me down. My friend Caitlin and I had about 11-12 braids braided in throughout our hair, and I am actually quite pleased with the result! My roommate Ashley had her hair partially braided into cornrows, and she looks really great! It was really fun to talk with these women, and we learned that we all have names according to what day of the week we’re born. I am a Monday-born, so I am called “Adjoa.” They were all so kind to us, and it was nice to spend time with them for the few hours. Afterwards, we headed to Accra for one last time. We went to a store called Global Mamas, which is a fair-trade NGO run by women. It was established by two former Peace Corps volunteers who wanted to make a long-term impact of women’s well-being in Ghana. I bought a beautiful Christmas ornament. On the way back to the ship, the bus driver on our Semester at Sea shuttle hit a woman’s basket that was being carried on her head. This lead to an incredible yelling match and a huge argument between the bus driver and angry individuals outside. Individuals were banging on our bus, and a man with a brick was outside my window. I was very fearful for what could happen, and we crouched down a few times, but I am happy to say the situation turned out alright once our bus driver swallowed his pride (about 30 minutes later), and paid the women for the damage he caused. This was definitely a sad way to end our stay in Ghana.
Overall, Ghana was a fascinating country, and one that for many reasons, I have difficulty understanding. Many of the men at the market were incredibly pushy and pulled on our arms, and seeing the homophobia that existed was also difficult. It is a country that I will have to process for some time, similar to my experience in China. I think it’s important to note, however, that the context of the lens at which I’m looking at Ghana is a bit different. To compare it to other nations we’ve been to is difficult, because in some ways it is similar to the other developing nations, but overall, the culture of Ghana is incredibly different from that in Vietnam and in India. Professor Lopez and I, and Ashley and I, have had many conversations trying to grapple our opinions and our experiences, but sometimes travel observations end in questions, rather than in statements.
There are 20 days left to the voyage, which is absolutely unreal to me. I will write you from Brazil, and I will write a final two entries: one on my way back the United States, and then one once I’ve made it back home to Dallas. I hope you all are healthy and happy!
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Monday, April 5, 2010
Reflections from Cape Town, South Africa
Hello family and friends! Before you continue reading this entry, I just want to forewarn you that it will be quite long; I had 5 incredible days in Cape Town, South Africa, and thus have a lot to reflect on!
South Africa, like India, is a country of extremes. The Gini index of the country (which measures the financial inequality between residents) is 58, which means it is incredibly unequal. To put it in context, the Gini index of India is 46, of United States is 48, and of Norway is 25. Most of the large economic disparities between residents in South Africa is due to apartheid. Even though apartheid ended in 1994 with the first multi-racial election, racial intolerance and segregation is still widespread today. It would be easy to not see the effects of apartheid in Cape Town. Our ship was docked at V&A Waterfront, an incredibly gorgeous, and also upscale, part of town. My 5 days included an amalgamation of both parts of South Africa- visiting the absolutely amazing geographic region, but also visiting Robben Island and talking with some locals about issues of race and class.
My first day in Cape Town was primarily spent at Table Mountain, one of the main landmarks of the city. There is a cable car that takes visitors up the mountain, but because I have a goal to hike in many countries, my friends and I decided to hike up. We thought that the trail would be pretty simple; however, we were wrong! The almost vertical trail, which consisted of large rocks, was very challenging! It took me about 2 hours to finish the hike, which I was happy about. Hiking provided some incredible views of Cape Town and the surrounding region, and hiking for me is always rewarding because it offers a feeling of accomplishment. These were not my favorite parts of the hike, though. My favorite part was the fact that it was such an international experience. We met and spoke with hikers from France, Germany, England, and also met a group of hikers from Cape Town. The hikers from Cape Town were a group of around 10-15 males, all wearing “Yes We Can” shirts. They were fun to hike with because they were very encouraging, and very funny! At one rest point in the shade, they asked to take a picture with me, and we started discussing where I was from. I learned that they are a group of recovering drug addicts and are in a program together. It was so inspiring to speak with them. Once we made it to the top, we spent a good 2 hours taking many pictures, eating lunch, and enjoying the fresh breeze.
South Africa, like India, is a country of extremes. The Gini index of the country (which measures the financial inequality between residents) is 58, which means it is incredibly unequal. To put it in context, the Gini index of India is 46, of United States is 48, and of Norway is 25. Most of the large economic disparities between residents in South Africa is due to apartheid. Even though apartheid ended in 1994 with the first multi-racial election, racial intolerance and segregation is still widespread today. It would be easy to not see the effects of apartheid in Cape Town. Our ship was docked at V&A Waterfront, an incredibly gorgeous, and also upscale, part of town. My 5 days included an amalgamation of both parts of South Africa- visiting the absolutely amazing geographic region, but also visiting Robben Island and talking with some locals about issues of race and class.
My first day in Cape Town was primarily spent at Table Mountain, one of the main landmarks of the city. There is a cable car that takes visitors up the mountain, but because I have a goal to hike in many countries, my friends and I decided to hike up. We thought that the trail would be pretty simple; however, we were wrong! The almost vertical trail, which consisted of large rocks, was very challenging! It took me about 2 hours to finish the hike, which I was happy about. Hiking provided some incredible views of Cape Town and the surrounding region, and hiking for me is always rewarding because it offers a feeling of accomplishment. These were not my favorite parts of the hike, though. My favorite part was the fact that it was such an international experience. We met and spoke with hikers from France, Germany, England, and also met a group of hikers from Cape Town. The hikers from Cape Town were a group of around 10-15 males, all wearing “Yes We Can” shirts. They were fun to hike with because they were very encouraging, and very funny! At one rest point in the shade, they asked to take a picture with me, and we started discussing where I was from. I learned that they are a group of recovering drug addicts and are in a program together. It was so inspiring to speak with them. Once we made it to the top, we spent a good 2 hours taking many pictures, eating lunch, and enjoying the fresh breeze.
I was fortunate to get on a program to Robben Island the second day. Our program was through an Anglican group, and our tour guide is currently a peace activist. I asked him a few questions about what type of work he does, and he mentioned some of the conflict between black South Africans and peace activists, as peace activists are normally white middle-class individuals (including him). I somewhat picked up on the racial conflict that is still alive today between him and some of the workers at Robben Island, which I found a little bothersome. Our visit was very informative, though, and I feel fortunate to have gone. During our visit, we went to the lime quarry, where political prisoners worked from 1963 onward. It was disturbing to see the place where hundreds of political prisoners worked and were dehumanized daily. The limestone production was used to build prison buildings, but mainly, it was used as a form of humiliation and physical abuse. The most intense part of the experience was the visit to the prison. My friend Erin and I had to leave the trip early due to prior commitments, so we went through the prison together. The halls were completely empty, and rooms were left almost exactly like they were when it was in use. Walking through the rows of cells and viewing the stories of individuals who spent time there, as well as viewing the tiny windows that separated prisoners from the rest of the world, was very eerie. We found a worker who took us to Nelson Mandela’s cell. The cell was unmarked, and did not stand out from any others. It was almost anticlimactic, as seeing so many cells that other political prisoners were in just magnified the fact that numerous individuals risked their lives for a greater cause. Walking through the halls and seeing the cells was the most out-of-the-body experience I have had in my life. I unfortunately struggle to find words to describe my experience in those halls, but I can say that the incredibly short time I spent there is a minute representation of the inhumanity prisoners had to experience.
It is clear that Cape Town is a very historic city, and in the near future it will have the attention of the world. In mid June, it will become the host city of the 2010 World Cup! Our third day, my friends Caitlin, Ashley, and I headed to the new stadium built for the World Cup, which was finished in December. It was a short 15-20 minute walk from our ship, which was very convenient. Unfortunately, we happened to visit on a day they don’t hold tours, but we were able to walk around the periphery and view the grounds. Of course, it is completely empty now, but it was amazing to imagine the energy that will be there in June. We peered through a parking gate to see the inside of the stadium and see the bright green turf that awaits the most talented soccer players in the world! It was also somewhat humorous to take pictures of ticket boxes and entry gates without enormous lines in front of them. The hype of the city was amazing; we walked to downtown after visiting the stadium and noticed many banners hyping residents up about being the host city. Stores were filled with shirts, flags, and knick knacks, and even the craft market downtown had World Cup hats. The rest of the day was spent walking around the city and enjoying the waterfront. On the way back from a wonderful evening, we ran into a group of guys in the area outside our ship. They stopped and asked us about ourselves. They were a group of very friendly, nice, and funny high school seniors, and we enjoyed our conversation. Because they were asking many questions about us, I decided to ask about them and their lives in Cape Town. This unraveled an incredibly interesting (and disturbing) conversation about race. For those of you who don’t know, South Africa is known as the Rainbow Nation. One of the guys in the group stated immediately (excuse my language here, please): “Don’t believe the Rainbow Nation stuff you hear. It’s complete shit!” He went on to explain that South Africa, in his eyes, is not a Rainbow Nation. He also said to us “Don’t get with any black guys here, it’s not like the U.S. They’re not clean here, they’re dirty, don’t trust them.” Meanwhile, a group of black individuals was walking by our conversation. I was extremely embarrassed to be seen with a group that was making such racist comments, but with my interest in race issues, I knew that this conversation was important for me to have. The group started talking about their experiences with reverse racism, and explained that they saw themselves at the bottom of the ladder. They also mentioned that they were annoyed with quotas in South Africa, such as the fact that their rugby team had to be 50% black or coloured. According to most classification, I would be seen as coloured in South Africa, but one of the guys looked at me and said, “no, you look like my sister!” It was interesting to see their acknowledgement that race relations in the United States is very different from in South Africa. These are not bad people, but rather, it is important to note that they are products of their environment and their socialization process.
Our fourth day in Cape Town was also an international experience, as we went on a tour of the Cape of Good Hope with a group of seven Europeans from many nations. We first went to Boulders Beach, where we saw the Jackass Penguins. They were adorable, and were enjoying the ocean water! We then went to the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, where we went on an hour bike ride throughout the incredible land there. The most amazing part was turning in for the Cape of Good Hope and seeing stunning views of rugged, dramatic cliffs and blue water. We biked through the hills and saw ostriches roaming freely. Once we reached the Cape of Good Hope, we hiked throughout the area and saw where the Atlantic Ocean and the Indian Ocean meet. The day overall was just phenomenal, and all we could say over and over again was “wow.” I feel so amazingly blessed to have had the experience. I had to pinch myself throughout the bike ride to really believe I was doing what I was!
My final day was also an incredible day in God’s creation, during Easter Sunday! I went to a game reserve and enjoyed a 2 ½ hour drive through the reserve. This area of South Africa was much more arid than Cape Town and had a very different natural beauty. During the drive we went to the cheetah conservation area, where we saw a male and a female cheetah! They are very beautiful and graceful animals. During the drive, we saw impala, kudu, springbok (the national animal of South Africa), and a hippo! My favorite part was when we saw a large herd of zebras, with wildebeest and springbok all around! It honestly did remind me of The Lion King (enter Circle of Life music….) We also saw a lion and a group of giraffes, which were incredibly cute! The time at the game reserve definitely made for an interesting Easter, and one that I will remember for years to come!
South Africa was full of fascinating, beautiful, difficult, awe-inspiring, and educational moments. It is a country that I must return to one day, both to explore the natural splendor and to research the issues of race and class. I hope all of you are doing well! I think we should be thankful that we live in a country where racial intolerance is becoming a mindset of the past, and an election of a multi-racial President makes us a country to look up to, not frown upon.
It is clear that Cape Town is a very historic city, and in the near future it will have the attention of the world. In mid June, it will become the host city of the 2010 World Cup! Our third day, my friends Caitlin, Ashley, and I headed to the new stadium built for the World Cup, which was finished in December. It was a short 15-20 minute walk from our ship, which was very convenient. Unfortunately, we happened to visit on a day they don’t hold tours, but we were able to walk around the periphery and view the grounds. Of course, it is completely empty now, but it was amazing to imagine the energy that will be there in June. We peered through a parking gate to see the inside of the stadium and see the bright green turf that awaits the most talented soccer players in the world! It was also somewhat humorous to take pictures of ticket boxes and entry gates without enormous lines in front of them. The hype of the city was amazing; we walked to downtown after visiting the stadium and noticed many banners hyping residents up about being the host city. Stores were filled with shirts, flags, and knick knacks, and even the craft market downtown had World Cup hats. The rest of the day was spent walking around the city and enjoying the waterfront. On the way back from a wonderful evening, we ran into a group of guys in the area outside our ship. They stopped and asked us about ourselves. They were a group of very friendly, nice, and funny high school seniors, and we enjoyed our conversation. Because they were asking many questions about us, I decided to ask about them and their lives in Cape Town. This unraveled an incredibly interesting (and disturbing) conversation about race. For those of you who don’t know, South Africa is known as the Rainbow Nation. One of the guys in the group stated immediately (excuse my language here, please): “Don’t believe the Rainbow Nation stuff you hear. It’s complete shit!” He went on to explain that South Africa, in his eyes, is not a Rainbow Nation. He also said to us “Don’t get with any black guys here, it’s not like the U.S. They’re not clean here, they’re dirty, don’t trust them.” Meanwhile, a group of black individuals was walking by our conversation. I was extremely embarrassed to be seen with a group that was making such racist comments, but with my interest in race issues, I knew that this conversation was important for me to have. The group started talking about their experiences with reverse racism, and explained that they saw themselves at the bottom of the ladder. They also mentioned that they were annoyed with quotas in South Africa, such as the fact that their rugby team had to be 50% black or coloured. According to most classification, I would be seen as coloured in South Africa, but one of the guys looked at me and said, “no, you look like my sister!” It was interesting to see their acknowledgement that race relations in the United States is very different from in South Africa. These are not bad people, but rather, it is important to note that they are products of their environment and their socialization process.
Our fourth day in Cape Town was also an international experience, as we went on a tour of the Cape of Good Hope with a group of seven Europeans from many nations. We first went to Boulders Beach, where we saw the Jackass Penguins. They were adorable, and were enjoying the ocean water! We then went to the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, where we went on an hour bike ride throughout the incredible land there. The most amazing part was turning in for the Cape of Good Hope and seeing stunning views of rugged, dramatic cliffs and blue water. We biked through the hills and saw ostriches roaming freely. Once we reached the Cape of Good Hope, we hiked throughout the area and saw where the Atlantic Ocean and the Indian Ocean meet. The day overall was just phenomenal, and all we could say over and over again was “wow.” I feel so amazingly blessed to have had the experience. I had to pinch myself throughout the bike ride to really believe I was doing what I was!
My final day was also an incredible day in God’s creation, during Easter Sunday! I went to a game reserve and enjoyed a 2 ½ hour drive through the reserve. This area of South Africa was much more arid than Cape Town and had a very different natural beauty. During the drive we went to the cheetah conservation area, where we saw a male and a female cheetah! They are very beautiful and graceful animals. During the drive, we saw impala, kudu, springbok (the national animal of South Africa), and a hippo! My favorite part was when we saw a large herd of zebras, with wildebeest and springbok all around! It honestly did remind me of The Lion King (enter Circle of Life music….) We also saw a lion and a group of giraffes, which were incredibly cute! The time at the game reserve definitely made for an interesting Easter, and one that I will remember for years to come!
South Africa was full of fascinating, beautiful, difficult, awe-inspiring, and educational moments. It is a country that I must return to one day, both to explore the natural splendor and to research the issues of race and class. I hope all of you are doing well! I think we should be thankful that we live in a country where racial intolerance is becoming a mindset of the past, and an election of a multi-racial President makes us a country to look up to, not frown upon.
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